Marie-Antoinette built a hamlet a stone’s throw from le Petit Trianon so that she could pretend to be a peasant.  There were miniature farms and a functioning dairy.  She’d run around “supervising” in a white muslin dress and a straw hat. The queen’s house

A simple cottage, where the queen could come to play. Le Petit Trianon The panels with the mirrors could be descended to the lower level to uncover the windows using mechanical devices Pavillon de France

None of the fountains were running today, but they were still lovely.  Apparently only the Apollo fountain would run continuously — the others only ran when the king walked by.

This smaller pavillion is on the grounds of Versailles and was a favorite of the queen.  It was also used extensively by Napoleon, and we found it decorated in the Empire style.  Still aligned with the neo-classical tradition, but much more influenced by Egypt than the earlier classical style of the main palace. Malachite – […]

I would have loved to have seen these gardens during the summer.  Even in winter, they were amazing in their meticulous geometry (nature, here, is UNDER CONTROL) and their sheer size (about 2,200 acres). 

This is the show-stopper:  A gallery running the length of the palace, lined with windows, mirrors and gilt torch-bearers, and topped with crystal chandeliers floating beneath a ceiling painted with the glories of France.

Because all the pelouses were interdites, we had our picnic on a stone bench on the side of the gravel walkway.  We watched all the tourists milling around and wished they were in powdered wigs and giant dresses. Jambon fromage sur baguette Gaufre liegoise(I love you Belgium!)

La chapelleBuilt toward the end of Louis XIV’s reign, when he became somewhat of a religious fanatic (probably under the influence of his mistress… a less lovely accomplishment was his revocation of the Edict of Nantes, which had allowed for religious freedom in France since Henri IV). Ceilings Apotheosis of Hercules King’s Bedroom Queen’s Bedroom Marie-Antoinette escaped […]

We visited Versailles today and in so doing filled a conspicuous gap in my exposure to French culture.  For all the time I’ve spent living and traveling in France, I had never been to Versailles.  During previous trips to Paris I’d either been otherwise engaged (for example, in tracking down Martinicans to interview for a […]

Pont du Caroussel; the Louvre is on the left Pont Neuf and Ile de la Cite Institut Francais Locks on the bridge  Lychees always make me think of eyeballs and/or brains  Eglise St. Eustache  Centre Pompidou   Look what I can see! And look, it’s a roving spotlight…