In the spirit of giving Fez a second chance, we set out on a walking tour of the Fez medina after returning from Volubilis.  We still were struck by how different it looked and felt from the souqs in Marrakesh, but the longer we walked the more it grew on me.  The whiteness of the city is lovely, and the bewilderingly chaotic energy is contagious.  Well, it’s off-putting at first, because there are no street signs and it’s easy to feel lost in the maze.  But once you power up the Blackberry GPS and start tracking your location to within a meter of where you’re actually standing, you start to feel like you know where you’re going (and like you aren’t going to get lost forever).